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SHOPPING |
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Shopping districts in Madrid are pretty defined. The biggest range
of stores are along Gran Vía and around Puerta del Sol, which is where
the department stores - such as El Corte Inglés - have their main
branches. For fashion ( moda ), the smartest addresses are c/Serrano,
c/Goya and c/Velázquez, north of the Retiro, while more alternative
designers are to be found in Malasaña and Chueca (c/Almirante,
especially). The antiques trade is centred down towards the Rastro, on
and around c/Ribera de Curtidores, or in the Puerta de Toledo shopping
centre (Métro: Puerta de Toledo), while for general weirdness , it's
hard to beat the shops just off Plaza Mayor, where luminous saints rub
shoulders with surgical supports and fascist memorabilia. The cheapest,
trashiest souvenirs can be collected at the Todo a Cien ("Everything at
100ptas") shops scattered all over the city. If you want international
or speciality shops, head for Madrid 2, a huge hypermarket next to Métro:
Barrio de Pilar or the upmarket ABC Serrano at c/Serrano 61 and Paseo de
la Castellana 34 (Métro: Nuñez de Balboa).
Most areas of the city have their own mercados del barrio - indoor
markets , devoted mainly to food. Among the best and most central are
those in Plaza San Miguel (just west of Plaza Mayor); La Cebada in Plaza
de la Cebada (Métro: La Latina); Antón Martín in c/Santa Isabel (Métro:
Antón Martín); behind the Gran Vía in Plaza de Mostenses (Métro: Plaza
de España); on c/Gravina in Chueca (Métro: Chueca); on c/Barceló in
Malasaña (Métro: Tribunal); and Maravillas in c/Bravo Murillo 122 (Métro:
Cuatro Caminos). The city's biggest market is, of course, El Rastro -
the flea market - which takes place on Sundays in La Latina, south of
Plaza Mayor. Other specialized markets include a second-hand book market
on the Cuesta de Moyano, at the southwest corner of El Retiro.
Opening hours and late-night shopping
Usual opening hours are Monday-Friday 9.30am-2pm & 5-8pm, Saturday
10am-2pm. Most shops are closed on Sunday, but the larger stores do open
on the first Sunday of each month (not in Aug.) and those selling
"cultural" goods such as books, CDs and videos can open every day. There
are however, two chains of late-night shops - Vip's and 7 Eleven - that
stay open into the small hours and on Sundays. Each branch sells
newspapers, cigarettes, groceries, books, CDs - all the things you need
to pop in for at 3am. Larger branches also have café-restaurants, one-hour
photo developing and other services.
Crafts and miscellaneous
Alvarez Gómez , c/Serrano 14 Métro: Serrano. Gómez has been making the
same perfumes in the same bottles for the past century. The scents -
carnations, roses, violets - are as simple and straight as they come.
Mon-Sat 9.30am-2pm & 4.45-8.15pm.
El Arco de los Cuchilleros , Plaza Mayor 9 - by the steps Métro: Sol.
The location of this shop may be at the heart of tourist Madrid but the
goods are a far cry from the swords, lace and castanets that fill most
shops in the region. El Arco handles thirty or so workshops and artisans,
who reflect Spanish artesanía at its most innovative and contemporary.
They encompass ceramics (six of Madrid's top potters), leather (from
Oviedo), wood (including some fine games), jewellery and textiles. Mon-Sat
11am-8pm, Sun 11am-2.30pm.
Conde Hermanos , c/Felipe II 2 Métro: Ópera (Mon-Fri 9.30am-1.30pm &
4.30-8pm) & José Ramírez , c/Concepción Jerónima Métro: Sol/Tirso de
Molina (Mon-Fri 9.30am-2pm & 5-8pm, Sat 10am-2pm). Two of the most
renowned guitar workshops in Spain; the latter even has a museum of
antique instruments. Prices start at around ¬108 and head skywards for
the quality models and fancy woods.
El Flamenco Vive , c/Unión 4 Métro: Ópera. Specializes in all things
Andalucian; flamenco music, guitars, percussion, dance accessories,
books etc. Mon-Sat 10.30am-2pm & 5-9pm.
Fútbol Total , c/Eloy Gonzalo 7 Métro: Quevedo & Estación de Trenes
Charmartín Métro: Chamartín. Just the place to get your Real, Atlético
or even Rayo shirt. In fact the strip of practically every Spanish team
is available, for around ¬43. Mon-Sat: July-Sept 10.30am-2pm &
5.30-8.30pm; Oct-June 10.30am-2pm & 5-9pm.
Intermon , c/Alberto Aguilera 15 Métro: Argüelles. Arts and crafts from
Asia, Africa and South America. Some of the profits are invested in
development programmes. Mon-Sat 10am-2pm & 5-8pm.
Casa Jiménez , c/Preciados 42 Métro: Callao. If you want to buy a fan
that's a work of art, this is the place to come. Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm &
5-8pm, closed Sat pm in July and all day Sat in Aug.
Palomeque , c/Hileras 12 Métro: Ópera. A religious department store
stocking everything from rosary beads and habits to your very own
plastic baby Jesus. If you want to complete your postcard collection of
Spanish saints and virgins, this is the place for you. Mon-Fri 10am-2pm
& 5-8pm, Sat 10am-2pm.
Puck , c/Duque de Sesto 30 Métro: Goya. This is the best - indeed, about
the only really decent - toy shop in central Madrid. Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm
& 4.30-8pm.
Puerta de Toledo shopping centre Métro: Puerta de Toledo. This centre
has several shops specializing in antiques, jewellery and crafts. Closed
Mon.
Seseña , c/Cruz 23 Métro: Sol. Tailor specializing in traditional
madrileño capes for royalty and celebrities. Clients have included Luis
Buñuel and Gary Cooper. Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm & 4.30-8pm.
Casa Yustas , Plaza Mayor 30 Métro: Sol. Madrid's oldest hat shop,
established in 1894. Pick from traditional designs for men's and women's
hats ( sombreros ), caps ( gorras ) and berets ( boinas ). No cards. Mon-Sat
9.30am-9.30pm, Sun & holidays 11am-1.30pm.
Books, comics and maps
Casa del Libro , Gran Vía 29 & Maestro Victoria 3 Métro: Callao. The
city's biggest bookstore, with three floors covering just about
everything, including a wide range of fiction in English. Mon-Sat
9.30am-9.30pm.
Desnivel , Plaza Matute 6 www.libreriadesnivel.com ; Métro: Antón
Martín. More centrally located than La Tienda Verde (see below), this
bookshop stocks a good range of guides and maps covering all parts of
Spain.
FNAC , c/Preciados 28 Métro: Callao. The book department of this huge
store is a good place to sit and peruse books and magazines in all
languages.
Librería Antonio Machado , c/Fernando VI 17 Métro: Alonso Martínez. The
city's best literary bookshop. All cards. Mon-Sat 10am-2pm & 5-8pm.
Pasajes , c/Genova 3 pasajes@infornet.es ; Métro: Alonso Martínez/Colón.
Specializes in English and foreign-language books. Also has a useful
noticeboard service for flat-sharing and Spanish classes. Mon-Fri
10am-2pm & 5-8pm, Sat 10am-2pm.
La Tienda Verde , c/Maudes 23 & 38 Métro: Cuatro Caminos. Trekking and
mountain books, guides and survey ( topográfico ) maps. Mon-Sat
9.30am-2pm & 4.30-8pm.
Fashion: clothes and shoes
Branches of chain stores such as Mango, Zara, Cortefiel and Springfield
are scattered all over the city and at sale times in January and July
there are often some great bargains to be picked up. If your tastes run
to the more select in the fashion stakes try some of the shops listed
below.
Adolfo Domínguez , c/José Ortega y Gasset 4 & c/Serrano 96 Métro:
Serrano. The classic modern Spanish look - subdued colours, free lines.
Domínguez's designs are quite pricey but he has a cheaper Basico range.
Both branches have men's clothes; women's are only available at the
Ortega y Gasset branch. Mon-Sat 10am-2pm & 5-8.30pm (Serrano branch open
at lunchtime).
Agatha Ruiz de la Prada , c/Marqués de Riscal 8 Métro: Rubén Darío.
Outlet for the striking clothes and accessories of this movida designer.
Mon-Fri 10am-2pm & 5-8pm, Sat 10am-2pm.
Ararat , c/Conde Xiquena 13 Métro: Chueca & c/Almirante 10 & 11 Métro:
Cheuca. A trio of shops with clubby Spanish and foreign designs at
reasonably modest prices. Men's clothes in c/Conde Xiquena, women's in
c/Almirante. Mon-Sat 11am-2pm & 5-8.30pm.
Berlín , c/Almirante 10 Métro: Chueca. Women's clothes from vanguard
European designers. Mon-Sat 11am-2pm & 5-8.30pm.
Blackmarket , c/Colón 3 Métro: Chueca. Adventurous clothes for women.
Mon-Sat 10.30am-2pm & 5-8.30pm.
Camper , c/Gran Vía 54 Métro: Callao. Spain's best shoe-shop chain, with
covetable designs at modest prices. There are lots of other branches
around the city. Men and women. Mon-Sat 10am-2pm & 5-8.30pm.
Caracol Cuadrado , c/Justiniano 6 Métro: Serrano. Bargain store selling
last season's designs from big names, including Sybilla - Spain's
trendiest designer. Men and women. Mon-Sat 10.30am-2.30pm & 5-8.30pm.
Ekseptión , c/Velázquez 28 Métro: Velázquez. A dramatic walkway gives
onto some of the most moderno clothes in Madrid, from Sybilla and Antoni
Miró, among others. Expensive. Men and women. Mon-Sat 10.30am-2.30pm &
5-8.30pm.
Excrupulus Net , c/Almirante 7 Métro: Chueca. Groovy shoes from Spanish
designers, Muxart and Looky. Men and women. Mon-Sat 11am-2pm & 5-8.30pm.
Glam , c/de Fuencarral 35 Métro: Gran Vía/Chueca & c/Hortaleza 62 Métro:
Chueca. The clientele and the clothes wouldn't look out of place in an
Almodóvar film. Mon-Sat 10am-2pm & 5-9pm.
Hernanz , c/Toledo 30 Métro: Tirso de Molina. This shoe shop stocks
alpargatas - espadrilles - in just about every imaginable colour. No
cards. Mon-Fri 9.30am-1.30pm & 5-8.30pm, Sat 9.30am-1.30pm.
Josep Font-Luz D'az , c/Serrano 58 - patio Métro: Serrano. Beautiful,
minimalist shop, selling original and expensive women's designs by this
young and muy de moda Catalan duo. Women only. Mon-Sat 10am-2pm &
5-8.30pm.
Manuel Herrero , c/Preciados 7 Métro: Sol. Traditional shop specializing
in leather; particularly good for coats and jackets.
Sybilla , c/Jorge Juan 12 Métro: Retiro. Sybilla was Spain's top
designer of the 1980s - a Vivienne Westwood of Madrid, if you will. She
remains at the forefront of the scene, and her prices show it. Women
only. All cards. Mon-Sat 10am-2pm & 4.30-8.30pm.
Food and drink
Baco - La Boutique del Vino , c/San Bernardo 117 Métro: Quevedo.
Good-value range of quality Spanish wines, cavas , brandies and even
Asturian cider. No cards. Mon-Fri 11am-2pm & 5-8pm, Sat 10am-2pm.
Casa Mira , Carrera de San Jerónimo 30 Métro: Sol. Old, established
pasteleria , selling delicious turrón, mazapán, frutas glaseadas , and
the like. Daily 10am-2pm & 5-9pm.
Lafuente , c/Luchana 28 Métro: Bilbao. Wines from Spain and abroad,
including lots from Rioja, Ribera del Duero and Galicia, plus cavas .
Mon-Sat 10am-2pm & 5-8.30pm.
Lhardy , Carrera de San Jerónimo 8 Métro: Sol. This bar and deli is
attached to one of Madrid's top restaurants - and is a lot more
affordable. You can put together wonderful and elaborate picnics (the
croquetas and empanadillas are legendary), assuming you can resist
consuming them on the spot. Mon-Sat 9.30am-3pm & 5-9pm, Sun 9am-2pm.
Mallorca , c/Serrano 6 Métro: Serrano. The main branch of Madrid's best
deli chain - like Lhardy , a pricey but fabulous treasure trove for
picnics, or cakes or chocs for presents. All branches have small bars
for drinks and canapés. Daily 9.30am-9pm.
La Mallorquina , Puerta del Sol 2 Métro: Sol. Wonderful-smelling pastry
shop and café selling everything you've always been told not to eat.
Mon-Sat 9am-9.45pm.
Mariano Aguado , c/Echegaray 19 Métro: Sevilla. Fine selection of
Spanish wines and, especially, sherries ( vinos de Jerez ). Mon-Sat
9.30am-2pm & 5.30-8.30pm.
Mariano Madrueño , c/Postigo San Martín 3 Métro: Callao. The place to
get wines and liqueurs such as Pacharán sloe gin. Mon-Fri 9.30am-2pm &
5-8pm, Sat 9.30am-2pm.
Tienda Olivarero , c/Mejia Lequerica 1 Métro: Alonso Martinez. Outlet
for olive growers' co-operative, with information sheets to guide you
towards purchasing the best olive oils. Mon-Sat 9.30am-2pm &
5.30-7.30pm.
Records and CDs
FNAC , c/Preciados 28 Métro: Callao. Large French store with a huge
collection of cassettes and CDs.
Madrid Rock , Gran Vía 25 Métro: Gran Vía. A big, slightly chaotic
store, good for rock CDs and concert tickets. Daily 10am-10pm.
Toni Martín , c/Martín de los Heros 18 Métro: Plaza de España. Rock CDs
and discs, new and second-hand. Mon-Sat 10.30am-2pm & 5.30-8.15pm.
Children
Mothercare , Madrid 2, La Vaguada, Avda. Monforte de Lemos Métro: Barrio
del Pilar. As you would expect you'll find a wide range of clothes and
every accessory you might conceivably require for a young child.
Prénatal , c/ Goya 99 Métro: Goya, San Bernardo 97-99 Métro: San
Bernardo & Madrid 2, La Vaguada, Avda. Monforte de Lemos Métro: Barrio
del Pilar. Spanish equivalent of Mothercare with more branches around
the city and often a little cheaper.
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